The world famous restaurant Noma will be closed, the ‘unsustainable’ model

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Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant that has garnered three Michelin stars and “World’s Best Restaurant” for its wildly impressive cuisine, will close in 2024.

Chef and founder René Redzepi said the intensive amount of labor required to produce the restaurant’s signature hyperlocal and painstakingly crafted dishes — much of which fell to interns and low-wage workers — was no longer sustainable. “Financially and emotionally, as an employer and as a human being, it just doesn’t work,” he told the New York Timeswhich previously reported the planned shutdown.

The restaurant will eventually transform into a “giant laboratory” that will host pop-ups and/or open temporarily for a season, as well as develop products for the company’s e-commerce arm. “Serving guests will still be a part of who we are, but being a restaurant no longer defines us,” read A note to customers Welcoming a new avatar as Noma 3.0 to the restaurant’s website. “Instead, most of our time will be spent exploring new projects and developing many more ideas and products.”

Sea snail broth and kelp ice cream: The new Noma tastes like the future

Founded in 2003, Noma was initially dismissed by some critics as a “blubber restaurant” due to its reliance on Nordic ingredients, but it quickly gained acclaim, hailed as a producer of spare but exciting “new Nordic” cuisine. It has been named the world’s best restaurant five times in the past 11 years and was awarded a third Michelin star — the province of only a handful of restaurants worldwide. In 2021. The price tag, for those with quick fingers to score a reservation, is at least $500 a head.

There was much about the dining experience, including reindeer and Foraged greens. The restaurant is set amidst wild gardens and greenhouses with rooms dedicated to barbecue and fermentation. The 40-seat dining room might be decorated with fish skeletons or dried seaweed; The multi-course meal concludes with the presentation of the menu.

Over the years, it morphed many times. went dark in 2015 for a five-week pop-up in Tokyo, and again a year later in Sydney and Tulum, Mexico. this Reopened in 2018 In Copenhagen, The Washington Post’s restaurant critic Tom Sietsema declared the new iteration “a rare opportunity to hang with a true visionary.”

“It soon becomes clear that we are eating the future, Redzepi’s thought process is so influential that his dishes are copied by chefs around the world at the speed of the Internet,” Sietsema wrote.

Tom Sietsema’s Fall Dining Guide

During the pandemic, it closed and reopened temporarily as a place for burgers and wine at picnic tables.

Redzepi and his operation have come under scrutiny, citing their reliance on unpaid “interns” (Noma began paying them in October). The chef himself admitted in a 2015 essay that he was Bullying of the boss Who had yelled and “pushed people” and ever since He said he did therapy To face your anger.

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